The special flintlock deer season provides the catalyst that rekindles ancestral fires within the modern day hunter. This year, while hunting the snow covered landscape, my thoughts were not only of the importance of the resource being hunted, but also of the rifle being carried. It was a firearm that offered no guarantee it would fire after the trigger was pulled and sparks filled the flash pan.

In 1974, the first special flintlock rifle season began. And like so many other hunters, I wanted to take part.

But I did not have a flintlock rifle. Several options lay before me. Purchase one that was vintage, have a custom flintlock rifle, or build one myself. My decision was to build my own.

Back then and to this day flintlock rifle kits offer a good alternative to off-the-shelf models. And construction is easy, provided you have some basic carpentry skills and a few tools.

The style of rifle is a matter of personal preference. Long rifles and Hawken styles are the most popular. In my case the Hawken style was my choice.

The metal parts such as the patch box, butt plate, trigger guard, and lock mechanism are complete. Whereas the stock and barrel will require time.

You’ll find the surface of the barrel to be pretty smooth. However, light machine marks will need to be polished out.

In my case, the process began using fine steel wool and a drop of light machine oil on the flat side of the barrel, then running the steel wool down the “flat” several times keeping count of the number of strokes. Then rotating the barrel and doing the same. Continue the process until each flat is polished to a mirror finish.

Next, attention was paid to the unfinished stock. The butt plate was installed along with the breech block, trigger guard, and brass escutcheon plates located on the fore end of the stock. All were temporally secured in place.

The barrel came next, and the fore end wedge and rear sight were temporarily installed on the unblued barrel.

The barrel was temporally secured in the stock. And finally, a mirror approximately 18×24 was setup near the work area.

Now it was wood working time.

The stock was shouldered and when the stock rested against my cheek I looked down the barrel and into the mirror to see if my right eye would properly line up with the center of the barrel and ultimately the center of the bore.

In my case, the exercise proved that an adjustment would be required.

While holding the stock in place and using a piece of chalk, several contact points were marked on the unfinished stock.

After removing the barrel from the stock and using a course round file, the cheek piece was carefully shaved down.

The barrel was reinstalled and the process of checking for proper alignment began once more. The process was slow and deliberate and repeated until sight alignment was achieved. Finally, while standing, the rifle was brought straight up, and when I set my cheek to the stock and looked in the mirror, I saw that the sights lined up perfectly.

Remember, the butt provides three points of contact that includes the shoulder, cheek, and trigger hand. All are essential to steady, accurate shooting.

If the stock has excessive drop and forces the shooter to hold his head too high, that eliminates one of those points of contact. Or if the individual’s head needs to be canted, the fit is as it should be.

Proper shape of the cheek piece is largely a matter of shooting style and the physical attributes of the shooter. You can only tell if a cheek piece fits by shouldering the rifle.

When fitted properly, the stock should provide a flat, angled surface with enough area front and rear to accommodate various head positions.

With the fitting process complete, the metal appointments were removed. The barrel was then delivered to a local gun shop who “hot blued” the barrel.

The stock was sanded and was then provided with an additional wet sanding. The stock was allowed to dry for several weeks.

The stock then received 23 coats of finish, each applied by hand with all surfaces treated, inside and out.

When the rifle was finally reassembled, only two aftermarket items were added. The first was a brass thimble to accommodate swing swivels for a rifle sling. The second was a stainless steel touch hole bushing.

From when I put the rifle together and to this day, my choice continues to be to shoot a patched round ball using black powder or Triple Seven powder.

Like many others hunting with a black powder rifle, the special flintlock season rekindles the spirit of survival and self-reliance and the common bond we have with those who came before us.

Right now is a great time to begin building a flintlock rifle, especially if you have a young hunter taking part. And when you do, you’ll be building a new hunting tradition.

Charlie Burchfield is an active member and past president of the Pennsylvania Outdoor Writers Association, an active member of the Professional Outdoor Media Association, Outdoor Writers Assoc. of America and the Mason-Dixon Outdoor Writers. Gateway Outdoors e-mail is GWOutdoors@comcast.net